Coyoacán

Coyoacán is a borough in Mexico City. It used to be a village that became important in history. The name Coyoacán comes from the Nahuatl language and means "place of those who own coyotes".

Long ago, the Aztecs named a village there. It was ruled by the Tepanec people. When the Spanish arrived, they used Coyoacán as a base. For a short time, it was even the first capital of New Spain.

Coyoacán stayed separate from Mexico City for a long time. It joined the city in 1857, becoming part of the Federal District. In 1928, it became one of the boroughs of Mexico City. As the city grew, farms and natural areas in Coyoacán changed into built-up places. But many older parts still keep their old layouts, squares, narrow streets, and buildings from long ago. Because of this, the historic center of Coyoacán is a popular place for visitors on weekends.

Villa Coyoacán or historic center

The old village of Coyoacán is called Villa Coyoacán or the historic center of the borough. It has 29 blocks and is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Mexico City, located 10 km south of the Zocalo (main square) of Mexico City. This area has narrow cobblestone streets and small plazas laid out during the colonial period, giving it a special character. It is filled with single-family homes that were once mansions and country homes built between the colonial period and the mid-20th century. In 2005, the Project for Public Spaces named it one of the best urban spaces to live in North America, and it is the only Mexican neighborhood on the list. The city named it a "Barrio Mágico" in 2011.

The historic center is quiet during the week but becomes busy and lively on weekends and holidays. After the Zocalo, it is the most visited place in Mexico City, especially the twin plazas in the center. The area welcomes about 70,000 people each weekend. Tour buses like the Turibus and Tranvia Turistico stop here on their routes through San Ángel, Ciudad Universitaria, and other southern parts of Mexico City. Visitors enjoy the peaceful, somewhat rural feel, along with many restaurants, cafes, museums, bookstores, and other cultural spots. Some of these places have been around for almost a century. Street performers like mimes, clowns, musicians, and dancers entertain crowds, and vendors sell treats like ice cream, homemade fruit drinks, esquites, amaranth bars, and candies. In the evening, food vendors offer warm dishes such as quesadillas, sopes, tortas, tostadas, and pozoles.

Tourism brings both good and challenges to the historic center. New shops and restaurants help the economy but can push out residents. Over 860 retail businesses are there, with about 200 opening in the last five years. While this growth helps, some worry the area may lose its character as more commercial buildings replace homes. Most of the borough, especially the historic center, is still home to older adults, but high property prices mean sales favor big businesses over families, affecting small shops and residents. Neighborhood groups work to protect the area's history. Traffic and parking are also big issues, with too many cars and few patrols leading to illegal parking taken over by unofficial “franeleros”.

Jardin del Centenario

The historic area centers around two large plazas with Indian laurel trees called the Jardin del Centenario and the Jardín Hidalgo. These plazas cover 24,000 square metres and were renovated in 2008, with green areas restored and paths paved in red and black volcanic stone. The renovation cost 88.3 million pesos. For many years, these plazas and nearby streets were full of vendors, both wandering and in stalls. When renovations started, about 150 vendors were removed from the plazas and around 500 from the surrounding streets. Though illegal, this had been allowed by authorities, causing damage and traffic problems. The main goal of the 2008 work was to move vendors to a new nearby crafts market. At first, vendors, some neighborhood groups, and local businesses opposed this, fearing it would hurt tourism. After the work finished in 2009, police kept vendors away, leading to arguments and court cases. The borough allowed some permits, but many still disagreed. In 2010, a court let forty vendors return, citing past tolerance, but neighborhood groups still object.

Plaza Hidalgo

Plaza Hidalgo, also called Jardín Hidalgo, is the main plaza. It is bordered by Calle Carillo Puerto to the east, Calle Caballocalco to the west, Calle B. Dominguez and the Casa Municipal to the north, and the Plaza del Centenario and the Parish of San Juan Bautista to the south. In the center stands an early 20th-century kiosk with stained glass and a bronze eagle on top, donated by Porfirio Díaz for Mexico's Independence Centennial in 1910. The eagle design was adopted after the French Intervention. A statue of priest Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla by Luis Arias is also there, with a sculpture called “La Familia de Antonio Alvarez Portual y Josué” behind it.

Plaza del Centenario

The Plaza del Centenario, also called the Jardín del Centenario, is smaller and west of Plaza Hidalgo, separated by Calle Carrillo Puerto. It was once part of the large atrium of the Parish of San Juan Bautista during colonial times. The main entrance, called the Arcadas Atrial or Arcos del Jardín del Centenario, still stands on the west side, built in the 16th century from stone with European and indigenous designs. The plaza’s current name honors Mexico's Independence Centennial. In the center is a fountain with a bronze sculpture of two coyotes, reflecting the borough's name. The south side has cafes and restaurants, including Café El Parnaso, while the north side features a large crafts market.

Casa Municipal (Casa de Cortés)

The Casa Municipal, also known as La Casa de Cortés, stands on the north side of Plaza Hidalgo. It has been an administrative building since the 18th century. The name “Casa de Cortés” comes from Coyoacán's link to Hernán Cortés, who lived there in 1521–1522 while rebuilding Tenochtitlan into Mexico City. However, Cortés never lived in this building; he was on lands belonging to Juan de Guzmán Iztolinque. What Cortés built here were offices to manage his lands as the Marquis del Valle de Oaxaca, which included Coyoacán. Local stories say this is where Cuauhtémoc was tortured looking for treasure.

The current building was constructed in the mid-18th century by Cortés’ descendants to replace an older, damaged structure. In the 1850s, it became the government seat for the municipality of Coyoacán, then part of the State of Mexico, far from Mexico City. When the borough of Coyoacán formed in 1928, the building remained the government seat. It was declared a Colonial Monument by INAH in 1932.

The building looks much as it did in the 18th century, with a simple sandstone and wood facade, wrought iron details, a wide cornice, and inverted arches. At the front is a sculpture of two coyotes in volcanic stone, the borough's current logo. Above the entrance is the coat of arms granted to Coyoacán by Charles IV of Spain. One side has the Sala de Cabildos or City Council Hall, painted by Aurora Reyes Flores with a mural of ancient Coyoacán, including the Xitle volcano, the Tepaneca god Xocotlhuetzin, and the Mesoamerican god Quetzalcoatl. Next is a small chapel with a mural by Diego Rosales from 1961, showing early Mexican history with figures like Cuauhtémoc, Cortés, La Malinche, and Pedro de Alvarado. Scenes cover the walls and ceiling.

Parish of San Juan Bautista

One of the most important historic buildings is the Parish of San Juan Bautista. Built between 1520 and 1552, it is one of Mexico City's three oldest parish churches, along with those in Tlalpan and Amaqueman. Originally a monastery by the Dominicans, it later passed to the Franciscans. Over time, much was replaced, but the choir area, Rosario Chapel, and main altar remain from the 16th century. The church has a large open chapel and part of its old atrium, now Plaza del Centenario. The interior has seven chapels, with the Rosario Chapel featuring a fancy Baroque altarpiece from the late 17th century. The monastery has two floors around a large courtyard, preserving much original woodwork by indigenous artisans. The feast day for San Juan Bautista is June 24, with a special altar, all-day mass, mariachi music, and a meal in the monastery, organized by 24 groups and the parish chaplains.

In 2005, the San Juan Bautista church was renovated under INAH and UNAM supervision. No work had been done for about a century. The cupola was badly damaged with plants growing out of it. Walls and floors were straightened, and studies ensured materials matched the original. It was declared a National Monument in 1934. The work was funded by government and private money.

Museo Nacional de Culturas Populares

Off the plazas is the Museo Nacional de Culturas Populares. The museum, created in 1982, shows temporary exhibits about popular culture, such as lucha libre wrestling. It has halls, an auditorium, and two courtyards for exhibitions, concerts, plays, and craft workshops for children.

The rest of the historic center and nearby areas have homes from the colonial era to the mid-20th century, many listed for their historic value. Two of the oldest streets are Calle de Higuera, leading southeast from the Parish of San Juan Miguel to La Concepción neighborhood, and Calle Francisco Sosa, leading toward San Angel. Calle Francisco Sosa has 65 historic buildings, including the Casa de Ordaz. Once thought to belong to conquistador Diego de Ordaz, research shows it was built in the 18th century. INAH authorized remodeling in 2004, but complaints said the owner, Banamex, changed too much inside. The chronicler said only the facade remained unchanged. The house was a girls' school in the 1920s, then the Instituto Centroamericano for boys in the 1930s. The Instituto Italiano de Cultura on Francisco Sosa Street is in a 17th–18th century adobe and stone mansion with Moorish-style decorations, a tiled fountain, and a private altar. It houses the Italian Embassy's cultural offices. The San Pedro Martír Hacienda's main house, now divided into three parts, keeps its original facades. In 1932, it housed the Escuela de Pintura al Aire Libre, an important art school.

The borough

The borough of Coyoacán was created in 1928 when Mexico City was divided into 16 parts. It is named after the old village of Coyoacán, where the borough government is located. The borough is larger than the village, covering 54.4 square kilometres in the middle of Mexico City. It shares borders with several other boroughs, including Benito Juárez, Iztapalapa, Xochimilco, and Álvaro Obregón.

Coyoacán is known for having a high quality of life. In 2004, it was ranked as the third best place to live in Mexico by the United Nations Development Programme. The area has many schools, from preschools to high schools. Most people in Coyoacán work in commerce and services, with many jobs also found in industry, especially in pharmaceuticals and food processing. Tourism is also an important part of the local economy.

Other neighborhoods of the borough

Further information: List of colonias in Coyoacán

Long ago, before it became a borough, this area was home to many small villages. You can still see traces of these old villages in the way streets are laid out and in local traditions. Many of these old villages, now called neighborhoods, are connected by a road that has been renamed many times. It is now called Francisco Sosa. This road goes from Plaza Hidalgo to the Panzacola Bridge in Santa Catarina. It used to have a trolley pulled by mules, which was later changed to electricity, and now buses travel there. Another main road is La Higuera, linking Plaza Hidalgo to La Conchita Plaza in La Concepción. These roads, and others from the colonial era, still have buildings that are hundreds of years old. Calle de Fernandez Leal, mostly built in the early 1900s, has many old mansions and homes. A movie starring Pierce Brosnan and Greg Kinnear was partly filmed on Plaza Santa Catarina.

La Concepción

La Concepción, also called La Conchita, is one of the oldest neighborhoods, dating back to the 1520s when Spanish explorers settled there. It centers around a small plaza with a church southeast of Villa Coyoacán. The main chapel and plaza are called the Purísima Concepción Chapel and Plaza de la Conchita. The plaza is surrounded by small streams from a spring called Los Camilos. The plaza was a very old ceremonial site. The neighborhood celebrates its feast day on December 8 with decorations, music, and sharing food like tamales and atole. Student musicians also perform in the streets.

Santa Catarina

Santa Catarina is home to many landmarks and is located west of Plaza del Centenario along Francisco Sosa Street. It has a bright yellow chapel built for indigenous people a long time ago. The chapel has murals that are over 400 years old and was declared a National Monument in 1932. Around it are restored colonial houses and a cultural center. The Dolores del Río House, once home to a famous actress, is now a private residence. The Miguel Angel de Quevedo House is a large home filled with plants. The Casa del Indio Fernández belongs to a filmmaker’s daughter. The Casa de Cultura Jesús Reyes Heroles has art galleries and teaches culinary arts. The San José del Altillo Church was built on land donated for a spiritual center. The Casa Alvarado houses the National Sound Library. The National Watercolor Museum, dedicated to watercolor paintings, moved here after an earthquake.

Colonia del Carmen

Colonia del Carmen, built in 1890, is known for its museums and landmarks. It became a favorite place for intellectuals and artists in the 1920s. The Frida Kahlo Museum, called “La Casa Azul,” is a blue house where Kahlo was born and lived. It displays her art and personal collections. The Leon Trotsky House Museum shows where Trotsky lived after being granted safety in Mexico. The house was made stronger for protection. The Higher School of Music looks like a Shakespearean house. The La Capilla Theater, built from old ruins, opened in 1953. The Juárez Institute, originally a church, now houses an educational institution. The Coyoacán Market was built in 1956.

Churubusco

Churubusco has the historic Dieguinos monastery, built over an ancient ceremonial site. The monastery now houses a museum with war artifacts. The Casa de Cristo is a private residence turned restaurant.

Pueblo de los Reyes, La Candelaria and other traditional "barrios"

La Candelaria and Los Reyes are two of the most traditional communities, known for their special customs. Los Reyes celebrates the Señor de las Misericordias, a crucifix image. The Recibimiento del Señor de las Misericordia festival in September marks this event. In Los Reyes, festivals include flower portals, parades with large cardboard figures, and candy for children. La Candelaria celebrates the Virgin Mary with a ten-day festival including religious services and cultural events. Other neighborhoods like San Lucas and San Mateo have traditions tied to their landscapes and history.

History

The name Coyoacán comes from the Nahuatl word Coyōhuahcān, which means "place of those who have coyotes." Long ago, this area was an important trading place on the shore of Lake Texcoco. The people there were called Tecpanecas, and they were good at farming and working with stone.

Later, the Aztecs took over and named the place Coyoacán. After the Spanish arrived, Coyoacán became an important spot. Many artists and famous people lived there, making it a special place for culture and art. Over time, as Mexico City grew, Coyoacán became part of the city, bringing new challenges and changes to its historic streets and plazas.

Education

Coyoacán has many schools for children of different ages. There are elementary schools, middle schools, and senior high schools.

Elementary schools

Some elementary schools in Coyoacán include Reino de Jordania, Tecayehuatzin, Professor Jesús Silva Herzog, and others.

Middle schools

Middle schools include Diurna Número 35 General Vicente Guerrero, Diurna Número 130 Guadalupe Ceniceros de Zavaleta, and several more.

Senior high schools

Senior high schools include Centro de Estudios Tecnológicos Industrial y de Servicios 2, Colegio de Bachilleres 4, and others. There are also public high schools from the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM) and the Instituto de Educación Media Superior del Distrito Federal (IEMS).

International schools

There is an international school called Lycée Franco-Mexicain (Liceo Franco Mexicano) with a Coyoacán Campus.

Other private schools

Other private schools include Colegio Olinca Periférico Campus, Escuela Mier y Pesado, and Colegio Anglo Mexicano de Coyoacán in Colonia San Francisco Culhuacán.

Ciudad Universitaria

Main article: University City of Mexico

Ciudad Universitaria is the main campus of the UNAM, Mexico's big university. It was built in the 1950s and moved the university from older buildings in the city center. In 2007, it became a special place protected by UNESCO for its importance.

The campus has many famous buildings. The Central Library has big colorful wall pictures made from stones from all over Mexico. These pictures show Mexico's history. There is also a tall tower called the Dean's Tower with special wall art on it.

The campus includes a big sports stadium built for the 1968 Olympic Games. There are also concert halls, theaters, and a special place for sculptures. An interactive science museum helps visitors learn about nature and science in fun ways.

Many bookstores line the streets near the campus, attracting other cultural spots like theaters and cafes. This area is lively and full of places to explore.

Other landmarks in the borough

The Viveros de Coyoacán is a park and plant nursery on the west side of the borough. It was once owned by Miguel Angel de Quevedo but became a public space under President Venustiano Carranza. Today, it grows trees for reforestation and helps clean the air in Mexico City.

The Centro Nacional de las Artes (National Arts Center) is located on Avenida Rio Churubusco. It includes theaters, a music conservatory, and schools for different arts like theater, dance, and painting. The building is modern and has a bookstore open to everyone.

Anahuacalli is a museum designed by artist Diego Rivera. It houses his collection of ancient art and some of his own murals. The building looks like a fortress made from volcanic stone and shows styles from ancient cultures.

The Casa del Sol was built by the Aguilar and Quevedo families. Venustiano Carranza wrote the Constitution of 1917 there. Today, it is a private building with a restaurant.

There are many other museums and theaters in the borough, including the Museo de Arte Escultórico Geles Cabrera and Teatro Rafael Solana.

Estadio Azteca is home to the Club América and the Mexican national soccer teams. It has hosted big events, including two FIFA World Cups.

Twinning

Coyoacán is a sister City of Arlington County, Virginia, United States. It also became a sister city of Clifden, County Galway, Ireland in 2012.

Notable residents

Coyoacán has been home to many famous people. Well-known residents include artists like Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, writers such as Laura Esquivel, and historical figures like Hernán Cortés and Marina (La Malinche). The area has attracted creative minds and important people from around the world.

In popular culture

The band Calexico has a song called "Coyoacán" on their 2015 album Edge of the Sun.