Dent d'Hérens

The Dent d'Hérens stands at 4,173 meters and is a striking mountain in the Pennine Alps, right on the border between Italy and Switzerland. It is just a few kilometres west of the famous Matterhorn. This towering peak offers breathtaking views and is part of one of the most beautiful mountain ranges in the world.

Along the east ridge of the Dent d'Hérens, there are several notable points. These include Punta Bianca, reaching 3,917 meters, the impressive Punta Carrel at 3,841 meters, and the significant Punta Maria Cristina standing at 3,703 meters.

For climbers, the Aosta hut, situated at 2,781 meters, serves as an important base. It is used for what is known as the normal route up the mountain, providing support and shelter for those attempting the summit.

Naming

The Dent d'Hérens gets its name from the Val d'Hérens, a valley north of the mountain. Originally, it might have been called Dent Blanche, but that name now belongs to a nearby peak called the Dent Blanche. In the past, maps sometimes called the area around these peaks Weisszahnhorn, meaning "White Tooth Peak" in German. The French name Dent Blanche only started being used in 1820. Because the Dent d'Hérens often hides behind the Dent Blanche, it was sometimes harder to see, leading to confusion in names. People in the lower part of the valley called it Dent Blanche, while those in the upper part used names like Dent de Rong or Dent d'Erins. Today’s names became official after the Dufour map was finished in 1862.

Geography

The Dent d'Hérens is a tall mountain located right on the border between Switzerland and Italy. It sits between the Swiss area called Valais to the north and the Italian region called Aosta Valley to the south. Water from the north side flows into the Rhone River, while water from the south side flows into the Po River.

This mountain is about 4 kilometers west of another famous peak, the Matterhorn, and is near the village of Cervinia on the Italian side. On the Swiss side, it towers above the Zmutt Glacier, which is in a quiet valley called Zmutt, about 12 kilometers from the town of Zermatt. Even though its name sounds like it should, this mountain does not actually overlook the valley called Val d'Hérens; that honor goes to the Dent Blanche, which is a few kilometers north.

Climbing history

The first ascent of the Dent d'Hérens was made by Florence Crauford Grove, William Edward Hall, Reginald Somerled Macdonald, Montagu Woodmass, Melchior Anderegg, Jean-Pierre Cachat and Peter Perren on 12 August 1863. Another climber, Edward Whymper, had tried to reach the top a few days earlier but decided to turn back because of loose rocks.

The first winter climb was done by M. Piacenza, J. J. Carrell and G. B. Pellisier on 16 January 1910.

The north face of the mountain was first climbed by George Finch, T. G. B. Forster and R. Peto on August 2, 1923. Later, in 1925, another team took on a more direct path up the same face.