Surfing

Surfing is an exciting surface water sport where a person, called a surfer, rides the waves on a special board. Surfers can ride alone or together in tandem surfing, using different kinds of boards to glide over the moving waves of water. These waves are usually found near the ocean, but surfers can also enjoy waves in lakes, rivers, or even special wave pools.

There are many ways to surf! Some people use a small board called a bodyboard, while others stand up on longer boards. One of the oldest ways to surf was on special crafts made by the Moche people of Peru or by the native peoples of the Pacific. Today, many surfers enjoy stand-up paddling, long boarding, or short boarding, each with its own style and type of wave.

In some places, like the North Shore of Oahu in Hawaii, the waves are perfect for surfing, and people from all over the world come to try them. Famous spots include Pipeline, Waimea Bay, and others like Teahupo'o in Tahiti or Mavericks in California.

Surfing became an Olympic sport in 2016, with the first competitions held at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Japan. The world’s biggest wave ever ridden was 26.2 meters tall, surfed by Sebastian Steudtner in Nazaré, Portugal.

Origins and history

Surfing has ancient roots, with early examples found in Peru. Around 200 CE, the Moche culture used a small board called the caballito de totora to glide over waves. Later, Polynesian culture brought surfing to the Hawaiian Islands, where standing upright on boards was developed. European explorers, including Joseph Banks and James King, observed these traditions.

Surfing spread to other regions, including West Africa, where children were seen riding waves on small boards as early as the 1640s. In California, surfing gained popularity in the late 1800s when Hawaiian princes introduced the sport to Santa Cruz. By the early 1900s, figures like George Freeth and Duke Kahanamoku helped popularize surfing in the United States and beyond. In 1936, Mary Ann Hawkins became a pioneer for women in surfing, winning California’s first women’s paddleboard race and inspiring many others.

Surf waves

See also: Ocean surface wave

Swell forms when wind blows over a large area of open water, called the wind's fetch. The size of a swell depends on the wind's strength, the length of its fetch, and how long it blows. Because of these factors, waves are usually bigger and more common on coastlines that face large stretches of ocean with strong low pressure systems.

Local winds can change the quality of waves. When winds blow from the land toward the sea, called "offshore" winds, they help create smooth, well-formed waves, sometimes called "barrel" or "tube" waves. Waves can break differently depending on where they are — for example, at a beach, over rocks, or along a point of land.

The shape of the seafloor near the shore greatly affects how waves break. Each spot has its own unique underwater landscape, which helps determine the kind of waves surfers might find there. Advances in technology help surfers predict when and where good waves might appear.

Maneuvers

Surfing involves exciting moves that surfers use to ride waves. When a surfer catches a wave, they stand up on their board and try to stay just ahead of the breaking part of the wave. Skilled surfers can make sharp turns and ride along the top of the wave. One of the most exciting moves is called a "tube ride," where the surfer goes inside the breaking wave, almost disappearing from view.

There are many special terms for different surfing moves. For example, "hanging ten" means putting both feet at the front edge of the board. Other moves include "cutback," where the surfer turns back toward the wave, and "air," where the surfer jumps into the air and lands back on the wave. These moves show how surfers can control their boards in exciting and creative ways.

Main article: Glossary of surfing

Learning

Many places with great waves have surf schools and camps where you can learn to surf. These camps teach the basics over several days and often include places to stay, meals, lessons, and surfboards. Lessons usually start on land with safety rules, then instructors help students catch small waves on special soft boards. These softboards are safer and easier to paddle than smaller boards, making them perfect for beginners.

Learning surfing involves skills like paddling, catching waves at the right moment, and keeping your balance. While you can learn on your own, having an instructor makes it safer and faster. Some people also practice on land using balance boards or skateboards, though this can sometimes lead to bad habits. Practicing in skate bowls, which mimic wave shapes, can help prepare surfers better. A good warm-up is important to avoid injuries.

Equipment

Surfing uses many types of equipment, such as surfboards, longboards, stand up paddle boards (SUPs), and bodyboards. Surfboards were originally made from solid wood but are now usually made from fiberglass and polyester resin. Modern surfboards can also be made from epoxy resin and Expanded Polystyrene foam, which makes them lighter and easier to paddle.

Surfers also use items like a leash to keep their board close, surf wax to prevent slipping, and fins to help steer. In warmer water, surfers wear boardshorts, while in colder water, they wear wetsuits. There are many different shapes and sizes of surfboards, including longboards for smooth rides and shortboards for quick turns. Other special boards, like the Fish for small waves and the Gun for big waves, are also popular.

The physics of surfing

Tow-in surfing in Nazaré, Portugal

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Giant breaking waves in Praia do Norte

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The Praia do Norte, Nazaré (North Beach) was listed in the Guinness World Records for the biggest waves ever surfed.

The physics of surfing looks at how waves form, how surfboards work, and how surfers move with the water. Waves start far out at sea where wind pushes them forward. As they near the shore, they slow down and grow taller, creating the perfect shape for surfing.

Surfers use boards of different sizes to match their skill. Longer boards help beginners balance, while shorter boards let experienced surfers turn quickly. When a wave comes, surfers paddle fast to catch it, then stand up and ride the wave toward the shore. Knowing how waves move helps surfers stay balanced and in control.

Dangers

Surfing, like all water sports, has some risks. One main risk is drowning. Even with a surfboard that helps keep you floating, sometimes the board can get away from you. A leash attached to your ankle or knee helps keep the board close, but it doesn’t stop you from falling into the water. In some cases, the leash can get caught on rocks or other things and hold you underwater.

Another danger is colliding with things in the water, like rocks, sand bars, or even other surfers and their boards. These bumps can cause cuts, scrapes, or sometimes more serious injuries. Surfers can also get hurt by sea animals such as sharks, stingrays, or jellyfish. Rip currents are strong flows of water moving away from the shore. They can pull surfers far out, but surfers can escape by paddling parallel to the shore.

The seabed can also be dangerous. If a surfer falls, waves can push and toss them, sometimes causing serious injuries if they hit the bottom of the ocean. Surfers can also get infections from bacteria in seawater, and repeated exposure to cold water can cause a condition called surfer’s ear, where the bone near the ear canal grows and makes the ear narrower. Using special ear plugs can help protect against this. Surfers might also get skin irritation called surf rash from rubbing against the board or the sun. Wearing a rash guard can help prevent this. There is also a rare condition called surfer’s myelopathy, where the spine gets temporarily paralyzed due to the back being arched too much. Proper warm-up and not lying on the board for long can help prevent it.

Surfers and surf culture

Main article: Surf culture

Surfers form a diverse culture centered around riding waves. Some surf for fun, while others make it a major part of their lives. Surfing culture is strongest in Hawaii and California, where the best waves are found, but surfers exist all along coastlines across America. Over time, surfing has created its own style, with special clothing like boardshorts and wetsuits.

In the 1960s, surfing became popular in movies and music, especially in California. Today, surfing is a big business, with many people working in clothing and fashion. There are also surfing competitions around the world. Some surfers travel to beautiful spots for photos and videos, supported by companies. Surfers often feel a deep connection to the ocean and find that surfing helps their mental health.