Uppsala Cathedral

Uppsala Cathedral (Swedish: Uppsala domkyrka) is a cathedral located between the University Hall of Uppsala University and the Fyris river in the centre of Uppsala, Sweden. It is a church of the Church of Sweden, the national church, in the Evangelical-Lutheran tradition, and serves as the seat of the Archbishop of Uppsala. The cathedral is also the burial site of King Eric IX, who became the patron saint of Sweden, and it was where new Kings of Sweden were traditionally crowned.

The cathedral dates to the late 13th century and, at a height of 118.7 metres (389 ft), it is the tallest church in the Nordic countries. It was originally built under Roman Catholicism and later used for coronations of Swedish monarchs after the Protestant Reformation. Many important people, such as Carl Linnaeus, are buried in its chapels.

Designed in the French Gothic style by French architects, the cathedral takes the shape of a cross. Most of it was built between 1272 and 1420, with the western end finished later. The building underwent changes over the centuries, including a major redesign in the 1880s. Today, visitors can see both ancient artwork and restored medieval paintings inside.

History

At the end of the Viking Age, a pagan temple at Gamla Uppsala was replaced by a Christian church. In 1123, Siward was ordained Bishop of Uppsala but it is unsure if he ever took office. In 1164, Sweden became an archbishopric under Lund’s control, with Stefan of Alvastra as its first archbishop.

After a fire damaged the cathedral in Gamla Uppsala in 1204, permission was granted in 1258 to move it to a larger site. In 1272, construction began on a new cathedral near the Fyris River in Östra Aros. The cathedral was dedicated to Saint Lawrence, Saint Eric, and Saint Olaf when consecrated in 1435. Over the years, it faced fires and restorations, including major work in the late 19th century and again in the 1970s and 2020s to preserve its structure.

The cathedral served as a coronation church for Swedish kings and queens until 1719. Restoration efforts in the late 1800s aimed to give it a French High Gothic look, but later work restored more of its original style.

Restoration work in the early 1970s improved the building’s structure. In 2010, fire safety equipment was added, and the electrical and heating systems were updated.

Between 2019 and 2021, the cathedral’s twin spire crowns and crosses were restored. The old cast iron structures were replaced with new, durable iron parts to ensure their safety and appearance.

Architecture

Uppsala Cathedral is the tallest church building in Scandinavia, standing at 118.7 metres tall. It was built in the French High Gothic style by French architects and has a Latin cross shape. The main part of the church, called the nave, is flanked by two smaller sides called aisles. The church was mostly built between 1270 and 1420, with the western end finished later in the 1400s. The towers took even longer to complete.

The church is made mostly of red brick, though it has a stone foundation and some limestone details. After fires in 1572 and 1702, the church was changed and repaired many times. The current tall towers were rebuilt in the 1880s. Although designed by French architects, Uppsala Cathedral uses brick instead of stone, which was easier to find nearby. This makes its walls thicker than those of stone cathedrals.

Interior

The Coronation Vault stands 27 metres above where the transept crosses the nave. It is where most of Sweden's monarchs were crowned from the Middle Ages until 1719. During the restoration in the 1880s, the ceiling and walls were decorated in the Neo-Gothic style. Some paintings added figures like Martin Luther, who led important changes in the church.

During the 1970s, many old paintings that had been hidden were uncovered and restored. The high altar is used for important church services and for ordaining new bishops. A silver chandelier from 1647 and a large silver and crystal crucifix from Orrefors were added in 1976.

Chapels

The Vasa Chapel, the largest chapel, was originally dedicated to the Virgin Mary but later became a burial place for Gustav Vasa and his family. Completed in 1583, it features Sweden’s national arms and old coats of arms from Sweden and Finland. The Finsta Chapel holds relics of Eric the Holy, Sweden’s patron saint, who was killed in 1160. His shrine was moved to the new cathedral and later replaced with a gold-plated one containing his relics and crown.

Windows

Many windows still have their original shape and size. The current stained-glass designs were added in the late 19th century. Large windows above the doors show God the Father, God the Son, and God the Holy Spirit. The rose window at the north portal is the oldest and unchanged since the 13th century.

Treasury and artefacts

The Treasury Museum in the north tower displays gold and silver items used in services, including Queen Margaret’s golden gown and burial items of Gustav Vasa and John III. Other artefacts include tapestries, a large pulpit designed by Nicodemus Tessin, and frescoes showing events in Gustav Vasa’s life.

Interred notables

Many important people from Swedish history are buried inside Uppsala Cathedral. Some of these include:

• Gustav Vasa, a king from the 1500s who wanted to be buried there. He is buried with two of his three wives in a special chapel.
• John III, Gustav Vasa's son, and his wife Gunilla Bielke are also buried there. His first wife, Catherine Jagiellon, has her own small chapel nearby.
• Carl Linnaeus, a famous scientist who studied plants, has a memorial near the Chapel of Remembrance.
• Emanuel Swedenborg, a scientist and thinker from the 1700s, was moved to Uppsala Cathedral from England in 1908.
• Nathan Söderblom, an archbishop who won a Nobel Peace Prize, is buried near the main altar.

Dag Hammarskjöld memorial

The cathedral also has a small memorial for Dag Hammarskjöld, a former leader of the United Nations who also won a Nobel Peace Prize. A stone there reads:

Icke jag
utan Gud i mig

Dag Hammarskjöld 1905–1961

The translation in English is "Not I, but God in me."

Open to visitors

The Uppsala Cathedral is in the center of Uppsala, Sweden, on Domkyrkoplan. It is usually open for visitors from 8 am to 6 pm most days. There is also a Treasury Museum in the north tower that is open from 10 am to 4 pm, and on Sundays it opens at 12:30 pm.