Berkeley, California

Berkeley (/ˈbɜːrkli/ BURK-lee) is a city on the eastern shore of San Francisco Bay in northern Alameda County, California, United States. It is named after the 18th-century Anglo-Irish bishop and philosopher George Berkeley. The city borders Oakland and Emeryville to the south, Albany and the unincorporated community of Kensington to the north, with its eastern edge along the Berkeley Hills. According to the 2020 census, Berkeley is home to around 124,321 people.

The city is famous for hosting the oldest campus of the University of California, Berkeley, a leading educational center. It is also the location of the Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory, an important research institution run by the university. Berkeley is home to the Graduate Theological Union, one of the world's largest centers for religious studies.

Berkeley is known as one of the most socially progressive cities in the United States. It has a rich history of supporting new ideas and movements, making it an interesting place to learn about American culture and history.

History

The site of today’s Berkeley was home to the Chochenyo/Huchiun Ohlone people when the first Europeans arrived. Evidence of their presence includes pits used for grinding food and a shellmound along the shoreline of San Francisco Bay.

The first Europeans arrived in 1776 with the De Anza Expedition, leading to the establishment of the Spanish Presidio of San Francisco. Luis Peralta was granted a large stretch of land on the east shore of San Francisco Bay, which included the area now known as Berkeley. This land, called Rancho San Antonio, was used for raising cattle and other activities. After passing from Spanish to Mexican control, and later to U.S. control following the Mexican-American War, the land faced encroachment and legal changes, especially during the gold rush era.

In 1866, the College of California chose a site north of Oakland for its new campus, which later became the University of California, Berkeley. The city grew around this campus, with residences, industries, and a wharf area developing. By the 1870s, the transcontinental railroad reached Oakland, and a branch line was built into Berkeley. The city was incorporated in 1878.

The early 20th century saw significant changes, including the impact of the 1906 San Francisco earthquake, which brought many artists and refugees to Berkeley. The city became more established with the creation of hospitals and the growth of its university. During World War II, Berkeley experienced growth due to war industries. The element berkelium was named after the city in 1949.

Geography

Berkeley is a city in California, United States. It covers an area of 17.7 square miles, with 10.5 square miles of land and 7.2 square miles of water from the San Francisco Bay. The city borders Albany, Oakland, and Emeryville.

The land in Berkeley gently rises from the bay up to the Berkeley Hills. Small creeks flow from the hills to the bay. The area has a warm-summer Mediterranean climate, with cool, wet winters and warm, dry summers. Fog often covers the city, making summers cooler than in other parts of California. Rainfall is common in winter, while summer brings sunny days with cool mornings and nights.

Demographics

The 2020 United States census reported that Berkeley had a population of 124,321 people. The city’s population density was 11,874 people per square mile. Berkeley’s racial and ethnic makeup included many groups: about half identified as White, nearly 8% as Black or African American, almost 20% as Asian, and smaller percentages of other groups. About 14% of the population identified as Hispanic or Latino.

In 2022, the median household income in Berkeley was $104,716. About 4.3% of families and 17.7% of all people lived below the poverty line, with slightly higher rates for children and older adults. The city has seen a drop in crime rates since the year 2000, although property crime remains higher than average.

Transportation

Berkeley has many ways to get around, including trains, buses, and bike paths. You can take Amtrak trains like the Capitol Corridor, ride the AC Transit buses, or use the BART subway at stops like Ashby, Downtown Berkeley Station, and North Berkeley. There are also special bike roads called Bicycle Boulevards to help cyclists get around safely.

In the past, Berkeley had many trains and streetcars that connected it to San Francisco and other nearby places. These old trains, known as the “Red Trains” or “Big Red Cars,” stopped running in 1941, and later, buses took their place. Today, people in Berkeley still enjoy using bikes and buses to travel around the city.

Economy

Berkeley is home to many well-known businesses. Some of the important ones include Chez Panisse, where California cuisine began, and Peet's Coffee's first store. Other famous spots are the Claremont Resort, the punk rock venue 924 Gilman, and Fantasy Studios.

The city has fewer big chain stores than other places its size. This is because local rules help small businesses and limit how big some stores can be. Some well-known businesses that used to be in Berkeley include Cody's Books, The North Face, and Clif Bar.

Main article: List of companies based in Berkeley, California

Places

Major streets

Shattuck Avenue passes through several neighborhoods from north to south, including the downtown business district in Berkeley. It is named for Francis K. Shattuck, one of Berkeley's earliest influential citizens. University Avenue runs from Berkeley's bayshore and marina in the west to the University of California campus in the east. College Avenue, running from the University of California from the north to Broadway in Oakland in the south, is a relatively quiet street compared with other major streets in Berkeley. It supports many restaurants and small shops. Ashby Avenue (Highway 13), which also runs from Berkeley's bayshore to the hills, connects with the Warren Freeway and Highway 24 leading to the Caldecott Tunnel, named for a former Berkeley mayor. San Pablo Avenue (Highway 123) runs north–south through West Berkeley, connecting Oakland and Emeryville to the south and Albany to the north. Telegraph Avenue, which runs north–south from the university campus to Oakland, historically the site of much of the hippie culture of Berkeley. Martin Luther King Jr. Way, which until 1984 was called Grove Street, runs north–south a few blocks west of Shattuck Avenue, connecting Oakland and the freeways to the south with the neighborhoods and other communities to the north. Sacramento Street is one of the four streets with a median in Berkeley, running from Hopkins Street from the north to Alcatraz Ave in the south. Solano Avenue, a major street for shopping and restaurants, runs east–west near the north end of Berkeley, continuing into Albany. Since 1974, Solano Avenue has hosted the annual Solano Avenue Stroll and Parade of the twin-cities of Albany and Berkeley, the East Bay's largest street festival.

Freeways

The Eastshore Freeway (I-80 and I-580) runs along Berkeley's bayshore with exits at Ashby Avenue, University Avenue and Gilman Street.

Bicycle and pedestrian paths

Ohlone Greenway San Francisco Bay Trail Berkeley I-80 bridge – opened in 2002, an arch-suspension bridge spanning Interstate 80, for bicycles and pedestrians only, giving access from the city at the foot of Addison Street to the San Francisco Bay Trail, the Eastshore State Park and the Berkeley Marina. Berkeley's Network of Historic Pathways – Berkeley has a network of historic pathways that link the winding neighborhoods found in the hills and offer panoramic lookouts over the East Bay. A complete guide to the pathways may be found at Berkeley Path Wanderers Association website.

Neighborhoods

Berkeley has a number of distinct neighborhoods. Surrounding the University of California campus are the most densely populated parts of the city. West of the campus is Downtown Berkeley, the city's traditional commercial core; home of the civic center, the city's only public high school, the busiest BART station in Berkeley, as well as a major transfer point for AC Transit buses. South of the campus is Southside, mainly a student ghetto, where much of the university's student housing is located. The busiest stretch of Telegraph Avenue is in this neighborhood. North of the campus is the quieter Northside neighborhood, the location of the Graduate Theological Union.

Farther from the university campus, the influence of the university quickly becomes less visible. Most of Berkeley's neighborhoods are primarily made up of detached houses, often with separate in-law units in the rear, although larger apartment buildings are also common in many neighborhoods. Commercial activities are concentrated along the major avenues and at important intersections and frequently define the neighborhood within which they reside.

In the southeastern corner of the city is the Claremont District, home to the Claremont Hotel. Also in the southeast is the Elmwood District known for its commercial area on College Avenue. West of Elmwood is South Berkeley, known for its weekend flea market at the Ashby Station.

West of (and including) San Pablo Avenue, itself a major commercial and transport corridor, is West Berkeley, the historic commercial center of the city. This neighborhood and area includes the former unincorporated town of Ocean View. West Berkeley contains the remnants of Berkeley's industrial area, much of which has been replaced by retail and office uses, as well as residential live/work loft space, paralleling the decline of manufacturing in the United States. This area abuts the shoreline of the San Francisco Bay and is home to the Berkeley Marina. Also nearby is Berkeley's Aquatic Park, featuring an artificial linear lagoon of San Francisco Bay.

North of downtown is North Berkeley which has its main commercial area nicknamed the "Gourmet Ghetto" because of the concentration of well-known restaurants and other food-related businesses. West of North Berkeley (roughly west of Sacramento and north of Cedar) is Westbrae, a small neighborhood centered on a small commercial area on Gilman Street and through which part of the Ohlone Greenway runs. Meanwhile, further north of North Berkeley are Northbrae, a master-planned subdivision from the early 20th century, and Thousand Oaks. Above these last three neighborhoods, on the western slopes of the Berkeley Hills are the neighborhoods of Cragmont and La Loma Park, notable for their dramatic views, winding streets, and numerous public stairways and paths.

Points of interest

Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive Berkeley Free Clinic, a free clinic operating since 1969. Berkeley High School Berkeley Historical Society and Museum (1931 Center St.) Berkeley Marina Berkeley Public Library (Shattuck Avenue at Kittredge Street) Berkeley Repertory Theatre Berkeley Rose Garden Cloyne Court Hotel, a member of the Berkeley Student Cooperative The Edible Schoolyard is a one-acre garden at Martin Luther King Middle School (Berkeley) Hearst Greek Theatre Indian Rock Park Judah L. Magnes Museum Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory Lawrence Hall of Science Regional Parks Botanic Garden Telegraph Avenue and People's Park, both known as centers of the counterculture of the 1960s Tilden Regional Park University of California, Berkeley The Campanile (Sather Tower) in the University of California, Berkeley campus. University of California Botanical Garden Urban Ore

Parks and recreation

Berkeley has many parks and green spaces. One of the largest is Tilden Regional Park, located east of the city. The city also works on restoring creeks and wetlands, including plans to bring Strawberry Creek into the open along Center Street. Along the shoreline at San Francisco Bay are the Berkeley Marina and East Shore State Park. Groups such as the Urban Creeks Council and Friends of the Five Creeks help care for the area's natural spaces. César Chávez Park near the marina was built where an old city dump once stood.

Landmarks and historic districts

Main article: List of Berkeley Landmarks in Berkeley, California

Berkeley has many special buildings, with 165 designated as local landmarks. Some of these are also listed in the National Register of Historic Places, including Berkeley High School and its Berkeley Community Theatre. Other notable buildings are the Berkeley City Club designed by Julia Morgan, and St. John's Presbyterian Church, also by Morgan, which is now the Berkeley Playhouse. The Thorsen House is another historic home designed by the Greene brothers.

Historic districts include George C. Edwards Stadium on the University of California, Berkeley campus, and the site of the former Clark Kerr Campus, UC Berkeley, which was once home to a school for people who were deaf, dumb, and blind.

Arts and culture

Berkeley is a vibrant city with many cultural activities. It is home to the Chilean-American community's La Peña Cultural Center, the largest cultural center for this community in the United States. The Freight and Salvage is the oldest full-time folk and traditional music venue west of the Mississippi River. The city also has the off-broadway theater Berkeley Repertory Theater, known as "Berkeley Rep," which has two stages and a school. The historic Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive (BAMPFA), operated by UC Berkeley, moved to downtown Berkeley in January 2016 and offers many exhibitions and film screenings.

Berkeley hosts several annual events throughout the year. These include the Jewish Music Festival in March, Cal Day at the University of California, Berkeley Open House in April, the Berkeley Arts Festival in April and May, the Himalayan Fair in May, the Berkeley Juneteenth Festival in June, the Berkeley Kite Festival in July, the Berkeley Juggling and Unicycling Festival in July or August, The Solano Avenue Stroll in September, and the Bay Area Book Festival in May.

Education

Berkeley, California is home to many educational institutions. The main campus of the University of California, Berkeley is located within the city. Nearby, The Graduate Theological Union offers advanced studies in religious topics, and Zaytuna College, a newer liberal-arts college, is also based there.

The city has public schools run by the Berkeley Unified School District. The district includes eleven elementary schools and one public high school, Berkeley High School (BHS), which was established in 1880 and has over 3,000 students. There are also three middle schools and a public library serving the community.

Government

See also: List of mayors of Berkeley and Government of Alameda County, California

Berkeley uses a council–manager government. The mayor, who is elected by all voters for a four-year term, serves as the ceremonial leader and chairs the city council. The Berkeley City Council includes the mayor and eight other members elected from different districts, each also serving four-year terms. The council selects a city manager to handle daily city operations.

In 2018, Berkeley made history by electing Rigel Robinson, a 22-year-old graduate of UC Berkeley, as a council member, making him the youngest ever to hold that position in the city. Berkeley also has its own public health division, one of only four in California run by a city. The city is part of Alameda County, which provides many important services like elections and law enforcement for the area.

Politics

Berkeley has been a strong supporter of the Democratic Party in presidential elections since 1960. It is one of the most Democratic cities in the country. In the 2020 election, Joe Biden received 93.8% of the vote while Donald Trump received only 4.0%.

As of October 2025, Berkeley had 75,509 registered voters. Most of them, about 73.53%, were registered Democrats. The city became the first in the United States to pass a sanctuary resolution on November 8, 1971.

Media

Berkeley has a rich history of media. In the past, the city had a daily newspaper called the Berkeley Gazette, which started around 1877 and stopped publishing in 1984. Another newspaper, the Berkeley Barb, shared news about the counter-culture movement from 1965 to 1980.

Today, Berkeley’s media include The Daily Californian, the student newspaper of UC Berkeley, the Berkeley Times, and several online news sources such as Berkeleyside, the Berkeley Daily Planet, and The Berkeley Scanner.

Notable people

Main articles: List of people from Berkeley, California and List of Berkeley High School (Berkeley, California) people

Berkeley has been home to many famous people. Some notable individuals include Kamala Harris, who grew up there, and Steve Wozniak, co-founder of Apple. The city has also been home to scientists like J. Robert Oppenheimer and Ernest Lawrence, as well as actors such as Ben Affleck and Andy Samberg. Musicians like Billie Joe Armstrong, lead singer of Green Day, and authors such as Ursula K. Le Guin have also lived in Berkeley.

Sister cities

Berkeley has 18 sister cities. One of these sister cities was suspended in 2022 because of the Russian invasion of Ukraine. Sister cities are places that work together to support each other and learn from one another.