Safekipedia

Rock climbing

Adapted from Wikipedia · Discoverer experience

Rock climbers scaling a narrow canyon wall in Canyonlands National Park, Utah.

Rock climbing is a thrilling sport where people climb natural rock surfaces or special walls indoors. Climbers follow routes that are described in guidebooks and online, learning who was the first to climb each route and how to do it. They try to climb these routes without help, which is called free climbing.

A traditional climber lead-climbing a crack-climb in Indian Creek, Utah.

Routes can be short or very long, from just a few meters to over a thousand meters high! There are many kinds of rock surfaces to climb on, like flat slabs, big faces, narrow cracks, and even overhangs. Famous places for rock climbing include El Capitan, the Verdon Gorge, and Saxon Switzerland.

Today, rock climbing focuses on free climbing, where climbers use only their skills and special equipment like rubber shoes and small clips to stay safe. There are different types of free climbing, such as bouldering on short routes, climbing on single pitches, and even very long big wall climbs. Some climbers dare to climb without any safety gear at all, called free solo climbing. The sport has grown a lot, and it even became an Olympic sport in 2020. Movies like Free Solo and The Dawn Wall have helped many people learn about this exciting activity.

Description

A 'lead climbing pair' with the 'leader' carrying a 'rack' of removable traditional climbing protection gear, and their 'belayer' standing on the ground below

Rock climbing is a fun activity where people climb either outdoors on natural rock or indoors on special walls. In one common way to climb, called a 'lead climbing pair,' one person climbs while another person, called the 'belayer,' controls a rope from the bottom. The belayer helps keep the climber safe if they fall by using a special device to lock the rope.

Climbers also use safety equipment called 'protection' as they climb. This can be small pieces that clip into the rope or fixed anchors in the rock. These help make sure the climber doesn't fall too far if they lose their grip. There are many different kinds of rock climbing, such as top roping and bouldering, which are great for beginners before trying more challenging climbs.

Types of routes

Natural outdoor

Main article: Climbing route

Rock climbing routes can be very short or very long, even over 1,000 metres. Some very hard routes are only a few metres long, while others stretch across huge cliffs. Climbers try routes on different kinds of rock, like granite, limestone, and sandstone, each offering unique challenges.

Artificial indoor

Topo image of the Toix Est in Costa Blanca in Spain in a Rockfax guidebook

Main articles: Climbing wall and Climbing gym

Indoor climbing walls mimic outdoor challenges and have special holds to test climbers. These walls are used in competitions and help many climbers practice. Modern walls can be as difficult as the toughest outdoor routes.

Recording of routes

Main article: Climbing guidebook

Climbing routes are recorded in guidebooks and online databases. These resources show the steps to complete a route and note its difficulty. Climbing magazines and websites also share news about new routes and first ascents.

Types of rock climbing

Alex Honnold's famous 2017 free solo of the big wall route, Freerider (5.13a, 7c+), on El Capitan

Rock climbing includes many different styles and ways to climb, depending on the route, its length, and the safety equipment used. Climbers can choose different methods based on their skill level and how much risk they want to take.

Climbing can be done in several ways: using no help at all (free climbing), using some help (aid climbing), or a mix of both. Some climbers try a route without any help or preparation, called an onsight. Others might try a route many times before they succeed, called a redpoint. The way a climber uses safety gear also changes the type of climbing. For shorter climbs, called bouldering, climbers use mats on the ground for safety. For longer climbs, they might use ropes and special gear to protect themselves. There are also competitions where climbers race up walls or solve tricky climbing puzzles as fast as they can.

Equipment

Main article: Rock-climbing equipment

Rock climbing needs different tools depending on the type. For bouldering, climbers mainly need special shoes, chalk for better grip, and sometimes pads to protect themselves. In sport climbing, they also use ropes, harnesses, devices to control the rope, and quickdraws that connect to bolts in the rock.

Climbing equipment can be grouped into several types: ropes and slings, connectors like carabiners and quickdraws, devices to control or move on ropes, protection devices like nuts and bolts, aid climbing tools like ladders, clothing such as shoes and helmets, and training tools like hangboards.

Techniques

The development of rock-climbing techniques has been just as important as the development of equipment in improving the sport and reaching new levels of difficulty. Many techniques are key for any rock climber to learn, especially with route setters in competition climbing creating routes that require specific skills.

Rock-climbing technique focuses on good body position and balance to save energy and climb efficiently. Climbers keep their arms straight to rest their weight on their joints, using their stronger legs to move upward. Keeping the hips close to the wall is important, using methods like 'back-stepping', where the climber uses the outside edge of their foot for better reach, and 'flagging', where the free leg balances the body. Using the legs for support and movement includes techniques like 'high-stepping' and 'heel hooking'.

Other important techniques include 'laybacking', where climbers use opposing forces of arms and legs to climb cracks, and 'bridging', where the climber spreads their legs to balance on opposite walls. 'Jamming' involves placing body parts into rock cracks to pull upward, used in routes like The Nose on El Capitan. 'Smearing' uses climbing shoes to grip smooth surfaces, essential in 'slab climbing'. Techniques like 'crimping' (using fingertips on tiny holds), 'edging' (using the edges of shoes), and 'hooking' (using feet to grab holds) are also important, especially in competition climbing. Advanced moves like 'dynos' (jumps between holds) and 'knee-bars' (resting on the knees) have become common in modern routes.

Grading

Main article: Grade (climbing)

Climbing routes are given grades to show how hard they are. Climbers can suggest a grade, but it is usually decided by many climbers after they try the route. There are different grading systems in different countries, but some have become the most used around the world.

Some famous climbs have special grades. For example, Action Directe was the first climb to get a very hard grade, and Midnight Lightning is one of the most famous short climbs.

Evolution of grade milestones

Main article: List of grade milestones in rock climbing

As climbing gets better, the hardest grades keep going up. Here are some of the hardest climbs ever done:

History and development

Main article: History of rock climbing

Rock climbing has grown from simple climbs in the late 1800s into many different types of climbing. Early climbers in Fontainebleau, the Dolomites, and the Lake District began exploring how to climb without extra help. Over time, new ways to climb appeared, such as bouldering, big wall climbing, and single-pitch climbing.

In the late 1970s, climbers in Buoux and Verdon created a new style called sport climbing. They used metal bolts for safety but not to help them climb. This made climbing safer and more popular, leading to better training tools, climbing competitions, and professional climbers. Today, women climbers like Lynn Hill, Janja Garnbret, and Ashima Shiraishi have reached the same high levels as men in many types of climbing.

Ethics

Rock climbing has many ethical debates, especially about what is fair and how to protect the environment. Early climbers argued about using aid (like hooks) versus free climbing using only natural holds. Over time, climbers have discussed using bolts for safety, with some feeling it makes climbing too easy. There are also debates about changing the rock to make holds, which some think is unfair.

Climbing can affect the environment, too. Things like chalk can be messy and mining it raises concerns. In some places, climbing is limited to protect wildlife and important cultural sites. New equipment, like special shoes or knee pads, has also caused discussion about whether they give climbers an unfair advantage.

Health

Rock climbing can improve your heart health, strengthen your muscles, and help you balance better. It can also boost your memory, help you solve problems, and make you feel happier and more confident. Some people even use climbing as a way to help with feelings of sadness, and it can be a fun way to meet new friends.

However, climbing can sometimes lead to injuries, like hurting tendons in your fingers or joints in your knees and shoulders. Some climbers may also face challenges with their eating habits, especially in competition climbing, as they try to stay light for better strength.

Governance and organization

Rock climbing is mostly self-governed, with climbers following social rules. Some countries have groups that represent climbers, like the American Alpine Club, and these groups can help make rules about where people can climb. The Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) is an international group that helps set safety standards and organize climbing competitions. In the 1980s, it helped start the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC), which now runs climbing competitions, including the Olympic climbing events. There are also groups like The Access Fund that work to protect places where people like to climb.

In film

Several notable films have showcased different types of rock climbing. These include documentaries about aid climbing, big wall climbing, bouldering, competition climbing, and single pitch climbing.

Some popular films are El Capitan, Valley Uprising, The Dawn Wall, Free Solo, and The Wall: Climb for Gold. These films highlight the skills and adventures of climbers around the world.

Images

A climbing nut, a small piece of gear used for safety in rock climbing.
A climbing cam securely placed in a rock crack, used for safety during mountain climbing.
A climber scaling a rock face in the slate quarries of North Wales.
A female climber scaling a rock face during a sport climbing expedition.
A climber scaling the dramatic cliffs of the Dolomites in Italy, showcasing the beauty and challenge of mountain climbing.
Janja Garnbret competing in the lead climbing final at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Innsbruck, Austria.
Two climbers practice bouldering on a padded mat at an indoor gym, using the thick mat for safety during their climb.
A close-up of a MoonBoard climbing wall, a special training tool used by climbers to practice their moves.
Female athletes compete in a sport climbing event during the European Championships in Munich, 2022.
A climber scaling a rock face during the first ascent of a challenging climb named 'Spectrum' in Red Rock Canyon.

Related articles

This article is a child-friendly adaptation of the Wikipedia article on Rock climbing, available under CC BY-SA 4.0.

Images from Wikimedia Commons. Tap any image to view credits and license.